Environmental Sustainability through Indigenous Natural Dyeing Practices: A Case Study of Kotpad Handloom Traditions of Odisha, India

Abstract

Sustainability in textile production is a critical global environmental concern. Some of the major impacts include the ecological burden of synthetic dyes, chemical effluents, high water consumption, and high energy-intensive processes. In such a state, traditional natural dyeing practices, rooted in local ecology and indigenous knowledge systems, offer viable alternatives due to their circular use of resources. This paper examines the environmental sustainability of Kotpad handloom textiles from the Koraput district of Odisha, India, focusing on the natural dyeing of cotton yarn using Aal root bark (Morinda citrifolia). Practiced by the Mirigan weaving community, Aal dyeing is a bio-based, low-chemical, resource-sensitive process. The study draws on primary data collected through semi-structured interviews with artisans and master weavers in Kotpad, as well as secondary data from published research and institutional sources. It examines the use of local resources—Aal root bark, castor oil, cow dung, wood ash, river water, sunlight, and iron waste—across the full dyeing cycle. Eco-friendly processes analyzed include fermentation-assisted dye extraction, alkaline scouring with bio-based inputs, aqueous extraction, repeated dyeing cycles to increase color depth, and iron mordanting using recycled metallic waste. A comparative analysis of water consumption, energy use, carbon emissions, and effluent toxicity demonstrating the environmental advantages of Kotpad dyeing over conventional synthetic processes has also been included. Quantitative data and process documentation have been presented in tabular form to support the analysis. The paper concludes that Kotpad’s Aal-dyed handloom tradition is a model of circular, low-carbon textile production and discusses its potential for integration into sustainable textile policy and modern eco-fashion systems.